Boat #1 = 1972 MFG Sprint

Rotten Floor & Stringers
Repair Status = Work in Progress
Owned by OHF MEMBER
=
JV
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Joined: 02 Apr 2004
Posts: 3494
Location: NE Ohio
I bought this boat and it appeared in GREAT SHAPE for its age.
I fished out of the boat for 4 or 5 years and I had
started to notice a "soft" spot
in the floor back near the outboard. I covered a baseball sized soft spot with a
piece of sheet aluminum and tried to keep it out of my mind,
fearing it was a MAJOR repair. Boy was I right! One rainy day I was at the lake
fishing,
and I had a "half" roof on, leaving the back of the boat exposed to the rain,
I got caught in a storm and it RAINED like never before,
I had noticed the boat was taking on some water so I
pumped it out with the bilge,
I was waiting for the downpour to stop so I could head in to the ramp.
I noticed the floor & carpet was saturated and had standing water on it.
I was heading in to the ramp full bore and the boat started to "vibrate"
and I knew something was wrong, I looked towards the back of the boat
and noticed a BULGE in the floor and it was right near my "soft spot"
that I thought was "fine". It was a HOLE in my floor, and the force of the 75 hp
outboard was bending the shape of the boat and that's when it started vibrating
I crawled into the ramp hoping I wasn't sinking, at this
point I didn't know exactly
what the extent of the damage was.
Thankfully the boats hull didn't have a hole in it.
After I got it onto the trailer I let the water drain out, the boat was really
holding
alot of water from the rain. I took the boat home to the garage and began
tearing out the
carpet to reveal my worst fear, it was time to deal with the "soft spot"



The
boats floor had part of the stringer poking out, and there was a noticeable hole
in the floor and you could see where the whole floor was shot.
Now Im frustrated
I crawled into the wet pile of rotten wood, and began
tearing out everything that
was rotten and would come out with my hands. Then I broke out the jig saw and
began removing the entire floor
What I found was rotten stringers , rotten bulkheads and
35 year old saturated foam.
I'm guessing the boat was carrying ALOT extra of weight
with this slopping mess



After seeing the damage, I knew it all had to come out.
So I started filling garbage cans with rotten wood and saturated floatation
foam.
I filled numerous garbage
cans with wood from the deck & stringers and a few more
cans from foam alone.


After I got most of the foam out I got a good look at the
stringer grid system so I
had a good idea on how to install a new one.


Then I got busy with a cutting disk and began cutting out
the old stringer grid.



Special attention was needed to remove the edge of the
deck from the hull


I then started to cut & piece the new stringer grid,
working it until it fit.




NOTE:
After I posted the pictures seen above a
member of the forums advised against using the
OSB board for the top of the stringers so I removed it and used marine grade
plywood as you
will see in the pictures below.
After I got the stringer grid cut & fit I was ready
to glass it in.
I coated the stringers & bulkheads with numerous coats of polyester resin ,
(I probably over did it) and let it dry for a few warm days, after I was
sure
every inch was completely coated with resin, and formed a clear hard coat,
I scuffed up the coating with some sand paper, then wiped clean all the dust.
I began to puzzle them together inside the boat with nails to hold the grid in
place.
I lifted out the grid and laid 2 layers of chopped strand mat cut into strips to
the
floor where the stringers & bulkheads would lay, and got it good and wet with
resin,
then I sat the grid back down and inched it into place until I knew I had it
perfect.
I let it dry until it was firmly affixed to the floor. Then after It was dry I
gave it another
wet coat of resin and began adding pre cut and resin soaked pieces of chopped
strand
mat. until the entire grid was covered with chopped strand mat, I added extra
mat to the
bulkheads and to the corners. Once I was satisfied the grid was covered, I let
it dry then
did it again, covering the entire grid with another layer of chopped strand mad,
again paying special attention to the bulkhead areas and the corners.
I then decided to fill the compartments with flotation
foam just like the manufacturer MFG
had done 35 years before this repair.
I bought two 2 gallon foam kits from an online vendor, and
it was simple to use,
you mix the 2 parts 50% to 50% and quickly stir then pour, and I mean QUICKLY!
I quickly got the knack for how much to pour in each
compartment and the job went
flawless, I filled up the boat with 3 times the foam the manufactured used for
safeties sake, I used the entire 4 gallons of foam , saving a little bit if I
need
it sometime for another similar job.
The foam quickly expanded and hardened rock hard in between the stringers &
bulkheads,
One again this boat felt stiff and rigid and that's when I realized, I had been
fishing in
a soggy boat that was actually bending with the force of the water, not very
efficient and
not very safe, I never imagined the damage under the floor could be so
catastrophic,
and at this stage in the repair with the hardest part done I'm now GLAD this
happened,
I neglected a soft spot , and I'm glad I was forced to have a look under the
floor,
because I would never have been on the lake in the first place. If you have
found a soft spot on
your boat floor, so yourself a favor and sell it or fix it, just don't neglect
it,
or you may be sorry someday.
Here is a shot of the front of the boat , the manufacture was cheap with the
foam in this area,
I filled this area with 5x the foam they used, and poured foam to the MAX in all
areas I could.
I figured the more foam the better, I plan on pouring more foam later on in this
repair
above deck behind the side wall panels.
I bet this boat has 3 times the required floatation foam.


Now the boat regained its solidness and I knew it was
never going to sink!
So I was ready to Glass down the deck.
Here is a shot of the sections of the new deck after I
glassed it in.


I cut the deck ( 5 ply plywood) in 2 sections, each
a perfect fit , I took them outside and gave
it multiple coats of polyester resin , about 3 coats top and bottom, even the
sides.
I let it dry for a day or two in the sun then coated it
again, after I was sure they
were completely covered and sealed I was ready to glass it down on the stringers
and glass it to the hull.
I started in the back half of the boat by coating the tops
of the stringers & bulkheads
with a good amount of polyester resin, then I added strips of chopped strand mat
to cover
all of the stringer and bulkheads anywhere where the deck would touch it, along
with
the sides of the hull where the deck would touch. After I got all the contact
areas soaked
with resin with a paintbrush, I was ready to set the deck in.
I set in the back section, a PERFECT FIT ! I then made sure it was flush and
making contact
with the entire grid and the sides of the hull, after I was sure the deck was
flat,
I set a few marine batteries on it to hold it in place while the resin dried.
The following day,
I did the same process to add the front section and the deck was now attached to
the grid.
After the front dried, then I scuffed up the coating with some sand paper, then
wiped clean
all the dust. I gave the
whole deck, a good slopping with the resin, and added big
pieces of chopped strand mat, making sure I got every inch if the deck and
paying special
attention to the sides of the deck where it met the hull, I was sure to overlap.
I let it dry for a couple days, and repeated the process giving it another layer
of
chopped strand mat. After it dried, I got in the boat and was testing the new
floor,
I jumped as hard as I could on the floor, something I would never had imagined
doing
with the old soft floor, I felt the new floor was solid and tight, I knew I did
a good job on this repair!
I used a total of 5 gallons of resin, but again I over did it and I could have
gotten away
with probably 3 gallons for this job, but I know it will take alot of water to
get to this wood.
With the new floor in solid, I decided to do something else, I decided to sand
down the entire
boat and look for any small cracks or areas that would let more water in. Also
after sanding it
of course I would be painting it. I started with a belt sander and just went to
town sanding.
I was not able to take the boat off the trailer, so I used a floor jack to give
me just enough
room to work comfortable. To my surprise, after I started sanding the gel coat,
I found 2 identical cracks, on each side of the boat, in the same spot, they
were stress cracks,
and I wouldn't have seen them until it was to late!


They were located in the front of the boat near the curve of the bow.
I sanded the heck out of the area, and exposed the entire crack, at the ends of
the cracks,
I drilled tiny holes, to stop the crack from spreading, I then filled the holes
with
marine tex filler, and let it dry. Then I sanded it, and coated it with poly
resin,
and some wet cloth. I let it dry and repeated the process until the crack was
completely gone,
it looks perfect like a crack never even existed!



I then chose a good barrier coat, Interlux 2000e.
INTERLUX 2000E
A high build universal above and below waterline epoxy primer for all surfaces. Fills severe cracks and crazing in gelcoat. Adheres well to properly sanded bare metal. Offered in gray, or white, which is excellent as a topside primer.
Its supposed to be the best there is when it comes to keeping water out.
After I had the boat
completely sanded perfect, and all spots that needed attention fixed up ,
I took it to the car wash,
and sprayed it down to remove all the while gel coat dust, after it was
spotless,
I took it home and let it sit in the summer sun, for about 3 days until I knew
it was dry.
Then I coated the entire boat with interlux, I was able to get about 5 coats
(more on the bottom)
with the 1 gallon kit, the stuff goes on thick and fills any spots that need it,
it was easy to work with and
I'm very happy I used it.
I then let it dry and got ready to paint the boat.
For
the bottom coat I decided on VIVID ANTIFOULING PAINT in color white
Vivid

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and for the topside I chose
interlux premium yacht enamel.
Interlux Premium Yacht Enamel

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If you prefer another type of paint you can look here for a wider variety.
This is where I bought all my marine paint for this job
Follow this link to view complete line of marine paint.
Because I had the boat jacked off the trailer, I had to do 1 side at a time,
but I was able to accomplish
complete coverage, I did have to go back and fix a few spots that bumped the bow
roller,
but it went fairly smooth. The bottom antifouling paint, on the boats bottom
half,
is actually a shade darker white than the topside, but you can hardly tell.
Here is a shot of the boat after its first coat. Keep in mind for safety sake
(kids playing outside etc) I sit the boat back down after the coats dried.
But when painting the boat must be completely free with 6-8" to work with
between the boat & trailer.




After I got the boat painted with multiple coats, I was very happy with
what I accomplished.
I fixed a few spots I didn't like, and all looks fine.
Then while
I had the boat up I put some fresh carpet on the bunk boards.
The ones that were on there were just about bare wood. Also while the boat was
up,
I gave the trailer a good painting with white rustoleum , and I gave the axle &
leaf springs
and hubs a coat of rustoleum black,
I also took off the fenders, sanded & painted them also rustoleum white and
added sand steps.
Im also very happy with the trailer. The trailer looks very nice.
I then bought some 3M Marine 5200 Adhesive sealant and went over everything on
the boat
including my motors, brackets & vhf & fm antennas, etc.
I also topped
off the fresh paint with some stickers pointing HERE to
OHFISHING.COM

Then I decided trying to find an MFG emblem off a used boat, would be costly and
a witch hunt,
so I made my own , which is good enough for me
My next task will be replacing the side wall panels, pouring more floatation
foam into the
"dead space" behind the panels ,again, every available area on this boat which
has space
not accessible to me, will be filled with this foam, its rock solid, and gives
you a good feeling
to know that you may get wet, but your NOT SINKING!
Then on to adding new carpet, new seats
and if my wife doesn't get angry at that... a new canvas roof.
I think that after all I have done to keep water OUT of the boat.
Winters almost over and so is this job! I got alot done here and I'm almost
ready to fish. I kept attacking
the trailer with another coat of paint, all new rollers, shafts, pins, end caps,
marker lights, wire harness,
tail lights, and I recarpeted the bunk boards,
added sand stickers to the fenders and walkway.




Next
I went on eBay and
found some new speakers, the ones I had were from the early 70's and rotted out.
I found pioneer door speakers 100 watts brand new sealed for $11, I installed
them and hooked them to the
boats original 1972 radio, and they sound
GREAT! Also I went to
Bass Pro Shops and picked up an electric
trolling motor mount for $14 , I have a Motorguide and I wanted to use it more
than a few times at the boat
ramp and fishing the breakwall at Lake Erie.
Then I
installed the new carpet and seats




My last fishing trip in this boat I wrecked the prop , skeg &
torpedo, so I had the outboard repairman make a
house call and remove the lower unit and take it to his shop, a few days later
he informed me that no internal
damage was done to the gears or bearings and that he had sent out the parts to
be welded and ordered a new
prop. Here is the damage to the motor.


I took some light sandpaper (emery cloth) and lightly WET
sanded the boats original top blue gelcoat.
After that I gave it a good polish with aurora boat scrub (polishing agent).
When I was finished the boats
gelcoat shined like it did in '72! These pictures from the garage do the finish
no justice, I will take more
outside when the sun comes out! How's it lookin?





Next I spend a good amount
of time and masked off the windshield frame, then I painted it with a fresh
coat of black paint, I had not planned to do this, but after I painted or
replaced everything else on the boat
the knocks & scratches else really stood out
so I had the idea of fresh
black,
when I was done I used the
rest of the rustoleum paint coating again the trailers axle



Next I removed the boats original stearn light, which had a
short or something. I replaced with a new light
pole that I had my eye on for its clear lens cover which I thought would be
brighter.
The pole is removable and it wont be in my way while fishing. It just pops in
and out and its that simple.

My boat had wooden strips
on the gunwale and I liked the look of them, it matched the other wood grain
on my dashboard and my side panels. My wood was beat up bad over the years and I
wanted to polish
them up, they were so bad I decided to just replace them with oak.
Here is a shot of the old one next to a new unfinished piece
of oak and the pieces I cut for my transom.




I used OAK and I made them
thicker then the originals, I began by sanding and filing all the edges off
the strips of wood until all corners were smooth and the surface was completly
sanded smooth.
I then took some scrap pieces and tried a few different stains until I found a
perfect match for my boats
wood grain. The matching color was Miniwax "Special Walnut" stain that I had
laying around the garage.
So I stained all of the pieces to match my boats wood. The first warm day
we have I'm going to coat each
section in 2 to 3 coats of polyester resin to encapsulate it from water so it
last a long long time.
Here are some pictures of the stain. I will also take pictures of them once
encapsulated and installed


My next step is to deliver my boat next week
to the shop to have my lower unit installed on the
Merc 75 and have my 9.9 kicker's electric start switch replaced along with a
tune up and have a new
fuel tank fitted. When the boat comes home, I have about 3-4 weeks left until
the official "fishing season"
The outboard repairman made a winter house call to remove my lower unit for
repair. He took it to
his shop and took it apart to inspect it and send the parts out to a weld shop.
He called and informed
me there was no internal damage to the gears or bearings, and a new prop and
some welding would be
all it needed.

In that time I plan on cramming in more work. I bought a new bilge pump which
needs installed, also I
bought a new thru hull fitting for the bilge to drain directly into the lake
instead of through my well,
that will also help me hide the hose from the pump. Then I plan on crawling
under my bow, and drilling
a door knob sized hole in the bottom, to fill an empty cavity with floatation
foam. I had this idea a while back
but never did it, but I'm going to do it, you cant
have to much foam, and it will also help even the weight out
between the front & back of the boat, after I drill the hole I will pour in the
foam, then I will fiberglass over
the hole like it was never there, after that Im going to lay OAK board across
the area move my batteries to the
FRONT from the rear, this also being done for weight issues in the rear, I now
have a 12 gallon fuel tank,
2 batteries, 3 motors all in the back, I figured a gallon of foam and 2
batteries in the front will even the load.
I started by drilling a doorknob sized hole under the bow , then I got an idea on how much foam I would mix,
I decided to mix the whole 2 gallon kit as the cavity was a lot bigger than I expected it to be.
I mixed the whole kit and began pouring, as it was "rising" I watched and got nervous that I over poured
and that it would blow out the bow! It rose right up to the hole and stopped just short of running out of room.
Next I will fiberglass over the hole I drilled with chopped strand mat, then cover the entire area with
thick oak boards (coated in resin of course) and then carpeted, this is the new location of my batteries.
Again with the added weight of the new foam and 2 batteries im hoping to take a load off the transom.
update 4/08
Im 99% finished with the boat and I have actually had it on the water!
The motors run great and despite being a bit heavier with all the lumber & foam the boat still hauls butt!
I had the motor repaired and Im happy with the work.
Once on the lake I gave it the real test and was very happy
Here is a video I took with my digi cam, as you can see she still moves out!
Here are a few shots I took of the boat almost 100% complete. I still have to attach the wood rails
I have them 3 coats of resin and they are ready to be driller, also I have to install a new thru hull
connector to an existing hole.
I also just received and Im ready to install a new winch, as the boat is to heavy for the old one.
When I set her in the water I was very very happy with the way the boat set in the water,
I had been worried about the transom being to heavy.

And here is a look of the trailer after all the new hardware & paint, the rollers still have decals on them
The maiden voyage was a good one at Lake Erie, and the boat handled GREAT in the rough water!
I got some slime on the new carpet, that's all that matters!
Stay Tuned ...............
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